How Much Does it Cost to Put up a Garden Shed?




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Job Costs




Job
Description
Labour
1A 2.4 metre square concrete slab, (8’x 8’) done properly plus spreading the soil that’s dug out over the rest of the garden rather than tipping it. Considering the ballast and “dust” (that’s what concrete is made with) will be out in the street and will need wheelbarrowing, that should take…2 men 2 days.
£550

Plus materials etc. for the above
£120
2If you want them to put the shed up as well add…
£100
3You want power and a light in the shed, with the armoured cable clipped to the fence (i.e. not by burying the whole lot 600mm underground). Say 1.5 days for a “sparks” inc. materials add…….
£425
“Labour” at £175 a day (tradesman) £100 (labourer), includes incidental fixings etc. and tipping charges. “Materials” if mentioned, are larger things (a boiler) and stuff only you can choose (tiles etc).  Also VAT must be added all round.

Information Sheet on Putting up a Garden Shed


We’re not interested in the price of the garden shed itself. A cheap 6’ x 4’ shed from “WickesBQ” is about £150. You can keep going north from there for increasingly fancy ones!

A man needs a shed! So does all the usual year-round garden stuff. In the winter you may need space for seat cushions, garden seats, and sun shades/umbrellas that go through the middle of the garden table. Therefore, get a shed that’s big enough!

You’ve always wanted a place to undertake those mucky little jobs you aren’t allowed to do on the kitchen table so now you have your chance to make a workbench with a tool rack and a vice and everything! I’m in ecstasy just thinking about it.

Don’t just go to “Wickesbase”, try the nearest timber yard as well. It’s nice to see one on display. Think about how long you want it to last, how well is it made, do you want windows and double doors, is there room for an armchair?

Does a shed need a foundation?


The first thing to think about is the base. Ideally this will be 
concrete and once again must be big enough. Sheds usually go in garden corners but think about moving it away from the fence a bit. Then you will have a solid base for all that stuff that’s always behind your shed.

If you are buying a decent one, it is worth leaving a space all the way round it for maintenance. The roof will need re-felting in ten years time and someone will need access.

What about electrics?


If you want a workbench you will need an 
electrical socket and if you have power, why not a light and a beer fridge?

Electrical power in gardens legally requires the installer to be registered with a “Competent Persons Scheme”. I suspect that the Guild of Garden Shed Erectors doesn’t include many qualified electricians. However, a qualified ‘sparks’ must install your shed’s power supply. You can do this after the shed is up, but consider first fitting a conduit in the concrete slab.  Then the supply cable can eventually be routed underground.

The concrete slab should be at least 75mm thick on 50mm of hardcore and be poured into a rough timber mould. This is called shuttering and it keeps the slab square.

When the shed is erected, the floor should be at least 50mm above the concrete, to stop rot. If it’s not, sort it out before you put lots of weight in it. Get it lifted up and put some 50mm support timbers underneath. If the floor is chipboard, make sure these timbers are no more than 350mm apart and go the whole way across.

So that’s it, except for carving the “Dog House” sign to hang over the door. ENJOY!


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